Except for the excellent restaurant and the beautiful, open-sided duara (gazebo), which has stunning views over the water, it can be visually underwhelming at first glance. But its quiet style, impeccable service, cuisine, the premium placed on privacy, the lack of TVs and other distractions and the simply elegance of its bungalows - all made completely out of natural materials and with large private verandas - make it a fantastic getaway. 

The overall ambience is an ideal balance between luxury and lack of pretension. 

A full range of excursions is offered, including to the Rufiji River delta, and there's a resident masseuse.

This Italian-managed lodge is designed to be fairly luxurious whilst still a little rustic, and smart without being pretentious. Set in a garden of coconut palms, and connected by pathways of the softest sand, Pole Pole has a small beach in front of it, perhaps 100m wide, with mangroves on either side. A path through the mangroves leads in a short walk of a few minutes to Kinasi Lodge (if you turn right) or to Mafia Island Lodge (if you turn left). 

Pole Pole's large bungalows, built almost entirely from organic materials, have modern en-suite bathrooms, including twin wash basins, showers, a bidet and a flush toilet. The bedroom has a polished wooden floor, some stylishly simple furniture, a ceiling fan and 24-hour electricity; its double or twin beds are surrounded by a walk-in mosquito net. Large double-doors lead onto very wide, shaded veranda overlooking the sea below, complete with some relaxing day-beds and chairs. 

Typical Italian four-course dinners are served at private tables in the restaurant. Starters are usually light, eg: crab salad, followed by a sizeable pasta course (or soup), then a main dish (typically seafood with simple vegetables) followed by dessert. (Swahili dinners are offered once a week or any day on request) 

Service is attentive and helpful, and there are also two good local masseuses to relax your muscles after a hard day's exertions. Pole Pole has no swimming pool, but snorkelling, diving, game fishing and other excursions are offered. 

One dhow trip - usually including some snorkelling and perhaps a picnic lunch - is normally offered every day on a complimentary basis, if guests wish to join in. 

If you're looking for somewhere small, comfortable and fairly remote with great diving and snorkelling, and involving very low-key excursions, then Pole Pole offers very good value indeed.